Learn About Precious Metals
Choosing the jewelry metal that's right for you
Learning about the different metals used to create fine jewelry can help you to make an informed decision about your purchase.
Most people are familiar with traditional metals such as gold and silver. Palladium and platinum are other precious metals that have gained popularity in recent years for use in engagement rings and wedding bands.
Today, cutting-edge technology has produced other options for those who want to express their unique style with new non-precious metals, including tungsten carbide, titanium and stainless steel.
Learn more about these metal options and see the wide selection at Michaels Jewelers for the setting that fits your style.
Gold
When mined in its purest form, gold is a precious yellow metal that's referred to as 24K. Because of its relative softness, gold is alloyed (mixed) with other metals to make it more durable. Jewelry is generally stamped with a marking to indicate its gold metal content or karatage (See chart at right).
Alloying with other metals also achieves different colors: silver to create green gold; copper to create rose or pink gold; nickel to create white gold. There can be a difference in color between different karats of the same color and some jewelry is designed with two-tone, three-tone or multi-colored gold.
Because the natural color of white gold is actually light grey, most white gold jewelry is finished with rhodium — a white metal with properties similar to platinum — to enhance its white appearance and luster. Even with alloys, gold is still essentially a yellow metal whose appearance can be affected with time and wear. It may be necessary to have your gold jewelry re-rhodium finished to return it to its like-new appearance every few years. (Current rhodium market prices will prevail).
When deciding between karat and color for your gold jewelry, consider:
- the metal's performance with everyday wear
- the difference in color between 10K, 14K and 18K gold
- the difference in price between the gold karats
| Karatage | Parts Gold | Purity |
|---|---|---|
| 24K | 1,000 | 100% |
| 18K | 750 | 75% |
| 14K | 585 | 58.5% |
| 10K | 417 | 41.7% |
Palladium
Palladium is a white metal which has a silver / grey / white appearance. Among the purest of precious metals, palladium is 30 times more precious than gold and 44% lighter than platinum. Its use became popular in the 1940s when platinum use was reserved for wartime efforts. More recently — with gold, platinum and rhodium prices increasing — palladium use in jewelry is again becoming popular. Jewelry designers and consumers are attracted to palladium because its qualities are similar to platinum (purity and rarity) yet its pricing is similar to gold.
Palladium is hypoallergenic, making it the perfect choice for those who experience reactions to gold or other metals. It will not tarnish and will always retain its white appearance without rhodium plating.
Palladium jewelry can be repaired and resized, but requires platinum solder. (Current platinum market prices will prevail).
Platinum
Platinum is a very white, pure metal that gained popularity during the Art Deco period of the 1920-1930s. Wartime efforts restricted its use in the 1940s and it wasn't until the 1990s that it saw a resurgence when white gold became the trend.
Platinum is among the most valuable of precious metals and is even more rare than gold, which also makes it significantly more expensive. It is 60% heavier than gold and is the most durable of the precious metals. Unlike palladium, its durability and malleability make it the metal of choice for engagement rings and wedding bands, heirloom quality jewelry, fine filigree work and detailed craftsmanship.
One of the only naturally occurring white precious metals, platinum will not tarnish and does not require additives or rhodium plating to maintain its white appearance.
Platinum is hypoallergenic, making it the perfect choice for those who experience reactions to gold or other metals.
Tungsten Carbide
The hardest metal available for use in jewelry, tungsten carbide or tungsten is initially created by mixing several powdered metals and firing them in high intensity heat furnaces. The result is a scratch and tarnish resistant, handsome grey / white metal that retains its shiny polish forever. Tungsten stands up to rough wear and tear and is a popular choice in men's wedding rings. Due to the nature of its composition, jewelry using tungsten carbide metal cannot be resized or repaired.
Titanium
Titanium is the hardest natural element in the world — stronger than steel, gold, silver or platinum — yet is very lightweight. Extremely durable and more dent, bend and scratch resistant than gold, silver and platinum, this distinctive silver / grey / white metal is a popular choice in men's jewelry. It will not fade in sunlight, is 100% hypoallergenic and has no reaction in saltwater. Titanium jewelry cannot be resized, repaired or cut.
Stainless Steel
A heavy, strong and corrosion-resistant, grey / white metal, stainless steel is a popular choice for those who need durable jewelry that can withstand an active lifestyle. Stainless steel jewelry cannot be resized or repaired.
Silver
Sterling silver is a white / grey, soft metal that is less expensive than gold, platinum and titanium. Prone to oxidation (turning black), silver needs regular cleaning to return it to its original luster, either by using a commercial silver jewelry cleaner or by taking it to your jeweler.
Silver is a popular metal for many jewelry styles but is not recommended for jewelry that will be worn every day or for extended periods. For these reasons and because of its softer quality, silver is not suitable for engagement rings and is generally not recommended for wedding bands.
